Counter Intelligence

Five on Food:Articles from the Wednesday Dining Pages

Posted in General Interest by melissamccart on February 21, 2007

78539793_d68896c7d3.jpg1) A Grandchild of Italy Cracks the Spaghetti Code.  New York Times.  An engaging first person article about the writer’s quest to find the origins of her family’s spaghetti sauce in Italy.  Yet she finds out what’s reinforced in this article in American Heritage about the History of Pizza— that US ingredients and the tastes that evolved as a result of a hybridizing culture meant that the sauce changed, too.

To understand why I made my sauce then way I did, I needed to start closer to home, with my mother. She has been making spaghetti sauce for almost 60 years, from a recipe she learned from her mother, who had been making it with American ingredients since the early 1900s.

Also in the Times: an article on tomorrow’s Whitney exhibit on Gordon Matta-Clarks’ links between food and art.

2) Seduced by Sugo: Long Cooked Italian Sauces Captivate Chefs and Diners.  San Francisco Chronicle.  More Italian home cooking today on the left coast, with an emphasis on bringing home cooking to restaurant kitchens:

Italy’s long-simmering meat sauces are legendary. And while they may be a dying art among home cooks in Italy, they are in vogue with Bay Area chefs, who go so far as to include the number of hours of cooking time on their menus. These chefs realize that a rich, stewy meat sauce ladled atop buttery egg noodles satisfies a diner’s innermost desires for the warm, reassuring dishes of nonna’s kitchen, even if that diner never had a nonna.

Also in the Chronicle— Bauer’s response to San Francisco having been anointed Bon Appetit readers’ favorite restaurant city and the debut of their new column, “The Accidental Vegetarian.”

3) From Chop Suey to Chiu Chow:  LA’s History of Chinese Restaurants.    Los Angeles Times.  Charles Perry traces the evolution of Chinese cuisine in LA, beginning in 1860.  Also check out “Pork Boy” and his huge piece on The Year of the Pig.

4) Seeing Red.  Enough of Trendy.  We Want Old Fashioned Italian.  Boston Globe.  Where to find good old red sauce Italian favorites in Boston.

5) Pizza Perfect.  Chicago Tribune.  Thin crust is squeezing out cornmeal-deep dish in Chicago.

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