Counter Intelligence

Lobster Lust

Posted in District of Columbia by melissamccart on July 6, 2009

In Sunday Suppers at Lucques, Suzanne Goin says she didn’t get her mom’s lust for lobsters, that it just wasn’t something she craved. My mother is less than excited about them, while my father and I have what Goin calls “that lobster bond.” I can’t help but love them, even when they’re not local, such as this past visit to Pawleys when my father ordered a couple. Kind of odd, since shrimp and grouper and whatever else is so fresh and accessible by their home. But he’s from Boston. Who can blame him on Father’s Day?

Like reading the Sunday New York Times, I eat lobster in an order that’s become a ritual. As a kid, I used to savor the tailfin first, separating flesh from shell with my fingertips, like a plastic bag at the farmer’s market. Then I’d suck juice from the legs, crack and pick the joints, then savor the claw meat last. Tamale and tail, I’d give to my dad or whomever.  I know, it’s the best part, I just like the rest of it better.

Post Father’s Day, I wanted to do something with the leftovers, which led me to the lobster roll. I’m not always into them. Especially when the bread is average, I’m bored. For that matter, I’m not a huge fan of sandwiches anyway. (I usually take them apart.) And I’m not really a fan of store-bought mayonnaise, either. So I decided to make them open faced with homemade aioli and fresh herbs.

I took a potato roll (though ideally, brioche), cut it in half and toasted it til golden in a pan with melted butter. Then I made a homemade mayo, kind of like this one, with olive oil, an egg yolk, fresh tarragon and lemon juice. I took chopped lobster tail and a diced carrot, added some mayo, fresh cracked pepper, a little salt, more tarragon, some grated lemon rind, and plated it on baby greens and half the warm roll.

Just enough toasty buttered bread as the base for a heap of lobster meat was a delicious take on the standard. Another rendition I’d like to try is Gourmet‘s no mayonnaise lobster roll from this month’s issue. Have a favorite lobster roll recipe? Share it in the comments.



2 Responses

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  1. Amy said, on July 6, 2009 at 4:04 pm

    When it comes to lobster rolls, I’m in the Connecticut-style — hot, with butter — camp, since it’s what I grew up with. But if I’m going to eat it cold, a tiny bit of mayonnaise is all that’s needed.

  2. mary said, on July 9, 2009 at 9:23 am

    I agree with Amy: butter and lobster only. I’m food dreaming of one right now.

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